Smoky Mountains

We toured through Tennessee several months ago, but we didn't see the mountains in the northeastern portion of the state. We had two reasons: 1 - snow was still hitting various parts of the country and we had seen quite a lot of it, 2 - we wanted to visit portions of Georgia and South Carolina before tornado season hit. We've been pleased with our planning in that regard but were anxious to return to one of the most beautiful sections of the country. We waited out the weekend crowds with necessary chores of laundry and checking out the layout of Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. The closest comparison we've seen to those areas is Branson, MO. A long strip of theaters and bizarre attractions line the main roads. Live musical performances, themed miniature golf courses, go kart tracks, 'Believe It or Not' venues and buffet restaurants all compete for your entertainment dollars. We're not planning on pursuing any of those and choose instead to focus on seeing the Smokies, specifically the national park. We've not been disappointed and are thankful that we can visit the park during the week when the crowds are a little smaller. We wove our way to do the auto tour of Cades Cove. A lot of folks visiting the park don't get out of their vehicle, but we truly don't believe you get the best appreciation without a walk or two. Our destination was about midway around the drive with a 5 mile round trip hike to see one of several waterfalls in the park.

Along the way, vehicles were stopped to see these deer in the forest. As long as we were stopped on the one-way drive, we took our own photos too!

The shade of the forest is so dark that we have trouble adjusting our flash to reflect the true colors of green.

The mountains are visible across meadows from time to time. We'd experienced a lot of rain over the weekend and were glad to go on a clear day for our hike.

After parking at the trail head, we were met by a couple of rangers. Several hikers had reported bear sightings along the trail and they were passing along warnings to hikers just arriving. While encouraging caution, they were not at all discouraging folks from carrying on with their hiking plans - so off we went.

Several of these single log creek crossings appeared along the way and we really liked the trail. Classified as moderate, most of the path is downhill to the base of the falls leaving the return trip as the more difficult portion.

The creeks become rivers and provide the refreshing sound of small rapids and a cool breeze all along the way.

Near the falls, the large boulders in the creek were irresistible to Cory.

The park map and other signs warned of the danger of climbing on the wet rocks, but this one was more pointed!

Our reward was well worth the 2 1/2 miles to the falls. Upon reflection, the 2 1/2 miles back was also worth it!

We were getting tired on our return and met folks in flip flop sandals that were going to struggle. While not too difficult of a climb, sections of the trail were climbing rocks and picking your way through tree roots. Traction from at least athletic shoes or boots was needful! We wonder if the sandal bunch was able to make it to the falls or if they had to turn back?

While stopping for rest and water at this spot of rapids, we spied river otters across the way. Two large and one small, they kept their distance but carried on with dipping, diving and climbing over tree branches and rocks. They are impossible to pick out in our photo, but we were so delighted to spend a few minutes watching their playful maneuvering we wanted to share.

We're taking a day to rest, tackle studies and see Knoxville but will return to the park again while we're here. It's absolutely irresistible!

Chattanooga Choo Choo, Moon Pies and the Trail of Tears

Besides visiting Civil War battlefields, we did find a few other things to see in Chattanooga. We set off to find the train that was made famous in the 1940's song. Our first sighting was atop this impressive building in an old downtown section of the city. We pulled on past the building and found an almost deserted parking area and explored on foot. We found an extensive collection of train cars and engines - and there it was - THE Chattanooga Choo Choo.

Everything was shut down in the area, but there were interesting shops and a restaurant housed in the train's dining car. We are hopeful that there is a busier season as these things were worth doing for the experience of a bygone era when travel by train was much more common and needful.

Exploring further, we found a much newer section of downtown with grand landscapes and spectacular buildings near the river.And, much to our delight, we found the Moon Pie General Store and yes....they have Moon Pies, double Moon Pies and Moon Pie t-shirts, Moon Pie clocks, Moon Pie posters...you get the idea. Also, the shop is a bookstore - what a terrific combination! The only thing missing was RC Cola (you probably need to be at least 50 years old and from the south to appreciate why). The kids agreed wholeheartedly that a Moon Pie was a wonderful invention

OK - we did go to one other civil war battlefield before leaving the vicinity. The entire area within and surrounding Chattanooga was a multi-faceted campaign over several months. Having already taken in the battle at Chickamauga, just south of Chattanooga, we pursued Lookout Mountain. The mountain itself can't be missed, the road to the top is a twisting series of switchbacks through woods and residential homes. We strongly advise against taking anything larger than our crew cub truck up this trail! Once at the crest of the mountain, a very lovely residential area filled with gorgeous old multistory houses looks down on the city from very precarious perches. We picked our way through the neighborhood, found a detour around a road repair project and finally arrived at the national park. Parking is very limited and we had to circle the neighborhood a couple of times to find the designated parking lot for the park.

The weather was overcast and very cold. We had only selected light jackets based on the temperature at the campground and the cold wind at the top of the mountain took our breath away. We quickly ran into the visitor's center to warm up and take in the exhibits that described the battle on the mountain.

This spectacular mural (measuring 13' x 33') was painted by an eyewitness of the battle, James Walker. The intricacy and detail is quite remarkable - the boys were spellbound, studying the details of fighting captured on the face of the mountain as well as surrounding the base of it.

We gathered our jackets around us and ventured into the park itself, with the very grand entrance created by the Corps of Engineers. If you've visited Corps of Engineers facilities, you've seen their logo that copies this grand structure (the tiny people in the arch are the Clark men).Beyond the boys is the valley, the city of Chattanooga and the Chattanooga River. Do not step off any of the trails on this mountain top - it's a loooong way down!The other side of the mountain offers the vantage of more of the valley and river.Atop this spectacular monument are two soldiers from the opposing armies, shaking hands...a tribute to the war's end and reconciliation.Had we been dressed more appropriately, we could have spent several hours on the trails on the mountain. Cold and thirsty, we took off to find coffee and hot chocolate.

When in Oklahoma, we had taken note that we were going to trace the route of the Trail of Tears toward it's origin. The Cherokee nation had been headquartered in northern Georgia and the chief of the Cherokees was born just south of what is now known as Chattanooga, TN. Rossville, GA is immediately adjacent and retains the name of the community as it was founded by this chief's family. John Ross was dedicated to preserve the Cherokee nation and their individual rights, but did not choose to do so in physical battle. In as admirable an approach as Martin Luther King, he faithfully persued the rights of the Indian nation through the courts. Sadly, although he won in court, the authorities refused to enforce the legal rights of the Cherokees and eventually, the nation was forced to relocate. A very shameful mark on our nation's history, we were pleased to share the forthright accounting with our kids so that they recognize that even the leaders of the land make terrible mistakes at times. We had terrific discussions as we toured the original childhood home of John Ross.

We continued in our quest to find this marker that acknowledges the name of the community before it was changed to Chattanooga.And finally, the marker for the beginning of the sad journey for the Cherokee nation is noted by this historical marker. Human greed is very ugly and it's tragic for our nation's leaders to have been so hard-headed and heartless at this point in history. Beyond the relocation of the people is the horrible timing of forcing the men, women and children to make the journey in winter, resulting in hypothermia and illness that killed so many. We're pleased to introduce our kids to unsung heroes along our journey. Chief John Ross was certainly a valiant warrior in a non-violent way for the civil rights of the Cherokee people, but is not recognized with national holidays, street names or multiple museums for civil rights in the manner of Martin Luther King. Even within the community of Chattanooga, where this hero was born, his birth home is tucked away in a run-down neighborhood with only a single sign pointing the way from the main road to the Chickamauga battlefield. Knowing these significant tidbits of history are off the beaten path inspires us to keep seeking them out. The full story of our country's history and heritage just cannot and is not captured in typical textbooks! OK, thanks for reading as I step off my soap box - now you can relate to our kids' perspective of history lessons in our house! Class dismissed...;)

Chicamauga

Hello! It's me, your friendly neighborhood Trailblogger...again. Due to the rave reviews (thanks Mrs. Brooks!) Mom and Dad decided to bring me back. Once again, I am honored to be a guest writer on this blog.

Well, after Shiloh, we headed to a battlefield called Chicamauga. This was slightly before Shiloh, but about the same size. This is the story of the battle:

After his Tullahoma Campaign, Rosecrans renewed his offensive, aiming to force the Confederates out of Chattanooga. The three army corps comprising Rosecrans’ s army split and set out for Chattanooga by separate routes. In early September, Rosecrans consolidated his forces scattered in Tennessee and Georgia and forced Bragg’s army out of Chattanooga, heading south. The Union troops followed it and brushed with it at Davis’ Cross Roads. Bragg was determined to reoccupy Chattanooga and decided to meet a part of Rosecrans’s army, defeat them, and then move back into the city. On the 17th he headed north, intending to meet and beat the XXI Army Corps. As Bragg marched north on the 18th, his cavalry and infantry fought with Union cavalry and mounted infantry which were armed with Spencer repeating rifles. Fighting began in earnest on the morning of the 19th, and Bragg’s men hammered but did not break the Union line. The next day, Bragg continued his assault on the Union line on the left, and in late morning, Rosecrans was informed that he had a gap in his line. In moving units to shore up the supposed gap, Rosencrans created one, and James Longstreet’s men promptly exploited it, driving one-third of the Union army, including Rosecrans himself, from the field. George H. Thomas took over command and began consolidating forces on Horseshoe Ridge and Snodgrass Hill. Although the Rebels launched determined assaults on these forces, they held until after dark. Thomas then led these men from the field leaving it to the Confederates. The Union retired to Chattanooga while the Rebels occupied the surrounding heights.

The layout was much like Shiloh, however. They had memorials throughout the battlefield, but they told much more of the story of the battle. We bought a CD that told the story of each memorial and the battles that took place there(much to Dad's exasperation, it cost 20 dollars. For those of you who don't know, Dad is the value menu king. He hangs on to a dollar tighter than a cliffhanger to a branch.) I really enjoyed actually being able to imagine the battles happening, where they happened, and the soldier's perspective of the battle.

Mom said I had taken enough pictures of cannons at Shiloh, so I did not take as many pictures of guns this go round. Though I did talk about them quite a bit. I do love visiting these places, it just causes me to almost have a hernia. I have to admit, I am somewhat of a tactical geek. I can make a thirty minute speech out of the difference between a howitzer and a field gun. And the rest of my family doesn't seem to share my zeal for tactics. Right about when I stop to gasp for breath for the tenth time, their eyes start to get vacant. So if you're ever visiting a civil war battlefield, either don't bring me or bring earplugs.

Well, it looks like we have reached the end of another post. Well, thanks for reading another one of my posts, and seeing as you haven't sued me yet, you must have enjoyed it. Hope to write to you again soon!

Trailblogger, signing off

Old Hickory, Hermitage and Grand Ole' Opry

Our first stop in the Nashville area was a visit to Hermitage, home of President Andrew 'Old Hickory' Jackson . President Jackson was quite the controversial figure in his day and still has his fans and enemies to this day. The museum at his home provided a lot of information to provide perspective on his life and decisions made at the time. Hearing of his difficult childhood where he began working for the American Revolution at 13 years of age and lost his entire family by the time he was 14 yo, made it easy to see how he had to develop a strong personality to survive. Not only did he survive, but accomplished a successful professional and military career before venturing into politics. Although firmly rooted in support of slavery as a plantation owner, he was also deeply rooted in the belief that the country should be united. Had he been around another 30 years or so, we would not have been surprised if he was not an ardent supporter of President Lincoln.

Displays within the museum clearly showed his appreciation for the material goods he was able to acquire and also an appreciation for big parties, along with his beloved wife. The grounds were easy to appreciate for their natural beauty, even in the winter dormancy.

The grand entry to the mansion is still framed very formally.

Under restoration, the current presentation of the mansion is very faded and tired. The appearance will be much more grand when the touchups are completed.

The original home that preceded the grand mansion is preserved on site as well.

We thoroughly enjoyed the tour of the mansion that was hosted by costumed interpreters as well as strolling the grounds. We easily spent over 5 hours absorbing the history and the nature and would highly recommend dedicating at least 3 hours if you choose to visit the Hermitage.


We took a drive around Nashville to see the other sights, which started with the famous Grand Ole Opry.

We were taken back by the development in the area which included a huge shopping mall, riverboat rides and amusement parks.

Inside the mall, we found the continuing theme of 'guitar pickers'.


On the exterior is evidence of the recording industry's presence at every turn.

Downtown is the home of the Country Music Hall of Fame.

You don't have to be a country music fan to see the evidence of the vast industry in the city. The area, while certainly busy with people and traffic, still hosts beautiful scenery within and surrounding the city that creates an atmosphere quite unique from Memphis. On to Chattanooga!

Shiloh

Hello, blog! This is Cory. I have been added as a guest writer to Mom and Dad's blog. I guess they were so envious of my blogging talents from Trailblogger(please visit that blog, by the way) that they had to have me write some on this blog.

We are currently parked in Chattanooga, TN. Apparently, for every city we visit there is a song recorded by someone who died before I was born. When we were in Nashville, it was Nashville Cats. Dad was really proud to find that one. But that was nothing compared to Chattanooga Choo Choo. I haven't heard that one yet. While we were in Memphis, mom found the Elvis channel on XM satellite radio, and I still haven't got Hound Dog out of my head. She was listening to a song, when I asked, "Mom, why is Elvis so famous?" and she replied, "He was famous for how he could curl his lip." I blinked. That's all it takes? But she said it was harder to do than it looks. So we all tried to do it while parked in a Shell gas station while Dad was inside getting some drinks. He came back to the car to find us all looking like angry chipmunks.

But before we arrived here in Chattanooga, we saw the battle of Shiloh. This was a battle fought during the Civil War, in which Generals Grant, Buell, Sherman, Beauregard, and Johnston all played a part. Grant and Buell, in an attempt to attack and secure Confederate railroads(an essential means of communication) Memphis and Charleston, and Mobile and Ohio. the Union forces settled a command post on Shiloh hill, with forward camps by Shiloh Church. General Johnston, knowing about these camps, planned to attack the Federals and take them by surprise, stopping them from reaching Corinth. Grant, unaware of the attack, waited for reinforcement from Buell. On April 6, Johnston attacked the surprised Federals and forced them to retreat to an area called the Hornet's Nest. The Confederates soon fell into disorganization, seeing that their element of surprise was starting to slip. This was heightened tremendously when Gen. Johnston was shot in the leg, killing him. Gen. Beauregard was then placed in command of the Confederate army. Wave after wave of the Confederates attacked the Hornet's Nest and were repelled. But, finally, 12 southern batteries were brought out to try to blast the Federals out of their defensive position. It eventually worked. Outnumbered and outgunned, the Federal troops retreated back to Grants position, where they would be able to repel the confederates. Happy with their victory, but exhausted, the Confederates set up camp, to attack Grant's position on the next day. Buell arrived with reinforcements that night, however, and when the Confederates attacked the next morning, Grant was able to easily repel them. The battered Confederates then retreated back to Shiloh church, where Beauregard rallied them and retreated them to Corinth.

We watched the film at the beginning of the tour, then toured the museum for a while. I nearly had a hernia trying to explain to Will about the guns used and the tactics that were used in the battle. I admit, I am a bit of a fanatic about the subject. As we took the driving tour, I was constantly singing out, "12 pound Howitzer!" or "6 pound Field Gun!" The driving tour took us past the Hornet's Nest, the batteries of the Confederates, and Grant's last Line. Unfortunately, some of the minor roads were closed. When we started the tour, one of the roads for the beginning of the tour was closed. Next to it was a road that said "Do not enter." Mom took one look at that, then said, "Let's go that way." Dad blinked. I looked at all the warning signs and said, "Hey...hey mom? Are you sure that's a good idea?" "Yes, of course I'm sure! Drive!" So Dad hit the gas and we took off the wrong way down the trail. About halfway up the trail, we realized that the whole thing made a big loop, and that we were going the wrong way up the loop. So we quickly turned around, or as quickly as we could in our Panzer (that's what I call our truck) and sped back the right way down the trail. We then passed the Union Cemetery (unfortunately closed) and the Confederate Burial trenches. We also took pictures of all the memorials erected for each of the units of Militia that played a part in the battle.

Unfortunately, we had to turn back home, as our very unhappy dogs were waiting to be fed. I've placed Shiloh on my list of top ten favorite battlefields.

Well, looks like my first post is over. Thank you blog, you've been a wonderful audience and I'll be back soon! *crickets chirp* Goodnight, Chattanooga! *more crickets* I'm...leaving...now *thunderous applause*

Walking in Memphis

The next stop for our family was Memphis, TN. We actually stayed in an RV park in West Memphis, AR - Tom Sawyer RV Park, right on the banks of the mighty Mississippi.

After settling in, we drove over to Memphis and had to see Beale St. If you haven't muted the music from our playlist, you can hear the song recorded in the early 90's that mentions several landmarks and famous artists from Memphis - and appropriately, we were touring in the rain!The downtown portion of Beale is blocked for vehicles and reminds us of 6th Street in Austin, TX. We thought it probably is mostly for night crowds, but we were glad to check it out.While downtown, we also couldn't miss the huge Pyramid (as tall as the Statue of Liberty). An auditorium that is owned by the city, it's sad to discover that this structure is abandoned for now. Originally built as a venue for sporting events, it has been displaced by newer and grander facilities in town. Similar to Memorial Coliseum in our old Corpus Christi stomping grounds - everyone's scratching their heads to determine the best use. The architectural theme was driven by the name of the city as the home of pyramids in Ancient Egypt. Thus, the statue of Rameses in the front.On to older structures in town, the Sun Studios where Rock-n-Roll was born in the '50s still stands and has been used by contemporary artists, such as U2 and John Mellencamp. Elvis, Jerry Lee, Carl Lewis and many others recorded here before the music industry expanded to other studios around the country.And, speaking of Elvis, we had to stop by Graceland. Bypassing the formal tour, however, we were happy to snap a photo of the mansion from the street (Elvis Presley Blvd).All along the street were businesses such as this one....We couldn't resist driving into the Graceland RV park...note the street signs (Heartbreak Lane and Jailhouse Drive).Here's Shook Up Lane...Others included Teddy Bear Lane, Don't Be Cruel Lane, Blue Suede Lane and Hound Dog Way.

And what did we find at the end of Lonely Street?Heartbreak Hotel, of course!We were amused while the kids were baffled. Since they were born long after the Elvis era, a lot of these things were lost on them - although we did make them listen to the Elvis station on our XM radio while we drove around.

We returned to the RV park about dark and about an hour later, snow started...again! A light dusting for this round. Here's a view of the Mississippi River with the light snow on the banks the following morning.